The premise of the Karma Supper Club’s Kitchen Confidential edition at Karma Lake of Menteith was simple. Chef Iain took Bourdain’s iconic restaurant expose – that howling, joyful love letter to the craft, grit and rock n roll excess of professional cooking and translated it into six spectacular courses, served in the stunning setting of the Stirling foothills on the edge of Scotland’s only lake. Roasted bone marrow arrived with grilled sourdough and parsley salad, doing precisely what bone marrow should: reminding you that the humble cut is often the honest one: rich, buttery and just a little bit umami. West coast oysters with shallot and sherry vinegar were clean and cold and properly Scottish.
A beef fillet tartare with hen’s egg and cornichons had the quiet confidence of a dish that needs nothing added. The foie gras, pan-seared with prunes, landed the classical French note Bourdain always respected even when he was skewering pretension around it. Roasted salmon with puy lentils and bisque arrived as the kitchen’s culmination, and the finale — coffee, bourbon caramel, smoked cream panna cotta — was as good a last line as any book could ask for. All enjoyed in suitably ribald company – we think the big man would have approved.
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